![]() This modification is a bit beyond the loads and simple structure of the Little House project so I would suggest you sketch out your changes and details and run it by an experienced local builder to make sure you are covered. Note that even where you do not have a loft you will want to tie the two sidewalls together at every 4'. That will stiffen the wall and help hold the shed roof loads wanting to push outward. Then either rest or hang joists off this ledger that is secured to the wall. If you going to do a 14' high wall and a 10' wall it would be best to do the high wall with 2圆 full length studs and notch for a ledger. We have never had any problems with this foundation, even in heavy snow load areas. That is why I limit the Little House foundation detail to a 14' wide building and light loft loads. ![]() You don't want so much load that the joists deflect or bend. When you go beyond this you get into bending forces inside the joist (think a very short diving board). MarkĪ floor joist can always cantilever its full depth and the downward forces will be considered to be the same as if the post or beam were directly under it. The living room area is all open with 12 ft wall on one side and 7 ft tall wall on the other side. I also have a 10 ft long wall below the loft to enclose in the bathroom area and this ties into the rafters where they go up 2 more feet with a short wall on top of the loft floor attached to the raised rafters also. The rafters do not push out on the walls just down since there isn't a ridge between the walls. My porch adds strength to the knee wall from tipping since it has a floor and sofet on the area above the decking for storage, access from the loft area. There is a knee wall in the tall wall the whole length but I am only doing 10 ft of the 24 ft long building this way and raise the loft area up 2 more feet by extending the knee wall in that area and just building the rear wall higher. I raised the low wall from 7' to 9 ft and the front high wall of 12 ft to 14 ft high. If your roof is pitched, enter the length and width of the flat area covered by the roof. You can enter these values in any units youd like, including meters and feet. You need to supply the following information: Length and width of your roof. It has a 12 ft wide area with 2X8 on a 12/5 pitch and a 40 lb snow load rating. To calculate the weight of snow on a roof, use the first two sections of our snow load calculator. I just did something like that to my cabin today and got it approved by the building inspector. I'm sure John will check in sometime soon and give us his educated slant on this. (I'm assuming you would insulate the roof, not the ceiling the way you describe the upper space as a possible sleeping loft, as well as storage. 2x8 rafters (24" OC) would be marginal if there are snow loads involved 2x10 would be better, and depending on how much and what kind of insulation you plan in that roof, 2x12 could be better yet. Six ft on one side and 4 ft on the other, with a 14 ft span calcs out to less than a 2:12 pitch. You'll notice the 16 x 24 on that link utilizes perimeter supports. But wider or adding knee wall height for more loft space would require something different. ![]() I believe John has said the foundation as used in the Little House plans is limited to a 14 ft wide configuration, with a loft being okay. Quote from: MountainDon on January 10, 2008, 11:12:22 PM
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